Skof | So Good I Couldn’t Hold Back The Expletives

Much anticipation surrounded my visit to Skof, the latest site under the Simon Rogan umbrella and sitting in an excellent spot in NOMA, Manchester; and Manchester should be delighted they’re here. Headed up by Rogan’s Executive Head Chef and Roux Scholar Tom Barnes, “skoffing” here will knock your socks off.

Upon arrival, we were offered a choice between the 12 course and 15 course menus, opting on this occasion for the 12 course. Following three stunning amuse bouche, we realised our mistake. Making a nuisance of ourselves, we asked to switch to the 15 course menu, and they were more than happy to oblige.

It would be remiss of me not to mention the front of house team by the way; they were fantastic throughout: relaxed, friendly and attentive without being overbearing. Exactly what you want from an outing like this and they certainly have met the brief of the chilled out, high-end fine dining experience.

So, once we received confirmation that we were allowed to switch, the main event began, and for what followed I will almost certainly run out of superlatives.

Firstly, nothing is overstated here. The entire concept appears to focus on the beauty of simplicity; exposed brick walls, bare tables, simple yet effective artwork that celebrate Barnes’ life and loves.

Where the food is concerned, there is simply a genius take on fantastic ingredients from someone of whom you must assume is that combination of natural talent, studiousness and passion that creates the finest technicians and artists.

BBQ Lobster on pork fat and sumptuous sourdough soaked in in own emulsion to start, and the first of three dishes that I’m delighted not to have missed out on; the deep, dark, doused vessel a suitably rich plinth for the delicate lobster to be displayed like some priceless pink sculpture.

Next, the English summer finally arrived in Manchester, in the form of a beautifully fresh dish of Orkney scallops, in a light and delicate broth accompanied by fried oyster; almost halfway through at this point and it would have been impossible to wipe the dopey smile of enjoyment from my idiotic face. That look was repeated before, during and after each wonderful course and if anything, only intensified.

Before the next course, we were invited up to the kitchen to enjoy our next dish of set miso custard, truffle, mushroom dashi and hen of the woods. This was where I completely embarrassed myself; as the trademark smile of chef Tom Barnes turned to greet us and asked how we were finding it so far, I found myself blurting out “f***ing excellent!”.

Oncloser inspection, you can see this is a close-knit and bonded team working towards a shared goal of passing the joy of great food to customers, so I hope my joy was plain to see even with my poor choice of language.

I returned to my table suitably embarrassed, but eager for the next dish, kohlrabi cooked over embers was next, with roast chicken, black garlic and nasturtium; visually splendid and covering all flavour bases.

Up next was my standout dish, steamed west coast cod flaking away amidst smoked eel and luscious buttermilk, which was quickly followed by a warming broth of grilled onions beautifully fleshed out with jersey royals cooked in aromats.

The finale of the savoury run took us to Sladesdown, Devon, for stunning roasted duck, perfectly supple and beautifully pink, married with fig leaf and celeriac and alongside was the most delicious nutty, wholemeal bread; ideal for mopping up the sweet, sticky sauce.

Now entering the final stretch, and the onset of a melancholy that regularly descends upon me as I reach the end of a much-anticipated dining experience. A small cheese course followed by a palate cleansing pre-dessert of amasake sorbet led into beautiful strawberries, jasmine cream and caramelised white chocolate and Manchester honey ice cream with chamomile sponge, cleverly building the sweet profiles before the perfect ‘Barney’s Tiramisu’.

I have to say something about this final dish. Leaning back into the idea that this whole experience is a way for Tom Barnes to celebrate his life and share it with customers; tiramisu on the face of it seems a strange ending to a Michelin Star standard modern British tasting menu, but when Tom approaches the table and tells you why we’re ending on such a note, it makes perfect sense. This is a tribute to his late father, for whom he used to make this beautifully simple yet indulgent dessert.

It was a sublime and touching way to finish off a fantastic dining experience. Overall, it was a delight to sample this world-class chef’s food and hospitality, and the perfect way to share in his passion for life and cooking.