Opheem

You know when you wake up and it just seems like it’s going to be a good day? That’s how Saturday 31st May greeted me when I awoke. Probably something to do with the fact that later that afternoon I would be settling into a long-anticipated dinner at Opheem.

 

On the way, we had picked out a bar for a pre-meal cocktail, so shout out to Fox and Chance here who supplied a cheeky aperitif.

 

Onward to the restaurant, through bustling Brummy streets, amongst the to and fro of fellow revellers in the fair city, but my mind fixated on what was to come. Distracted once only by a man with a cat.

 

We got to the restaurant around 15 minutes early, and there was one group and another couple already waiting, equally keen as us.

 

I had of course seen pictures of Opheem, it’s such a high-profile restaurant and there are dozens of publications about the UK’s only 2 Michelin Star Indian restaurant. Until you step inside a place however, I don’t think it’s possible to get a real feel for it, and nothing could prepare me for how this place makes you feel.

 

Once the door opened, we stepped inside and were shown to the ‘lounge’ (I suppose you’d call it that, though that’s a strangely unsatisfying word for this room). It’s large – and I mean massive – I guess with the purpose of making us feel like we’re alone, save the calm and unassuming staff slowly making the rounds.

 

Before the amuse bouche proper, we were served a small vial of a lime, cucumber and chilli palate cleanser, and I ordered a matching cocktail.

 

Some of the best ‘snacks’ I’ve ever eaten came next: oyster emulsion with chilli broth and coriander oil, followed by a beautiful mango tuille, with chutney and burnt lettuce. There was also cured seabass with ginger, radish and mango sauce.

 

 

My two favourites were a beautifully balanced and delicate apple macaron, a date and onion chutney, topped with a beef and duck liver tartare; and the last one, which I lacked the discipline to take the time to savour, an unbelievably delicious, curried crab crumpet (try saying that at the end of your wine pairing!).

 

 

After my bouche had been suitably amused, we were led through to the main restaurant area and were seated with a fantastic view of the open kitchen, before being greeted by our delightful sommelier and we asked for the wine pairing.

 

While I’m on the front of house team, it must be mentioned that they are exceptional. The attention to detail was ridiculously good, but it never felt like they were being overbearing.

 

I have to also profess my love for an open kitchen. I love feeling that I’m right in the middle of the whole process, from start to finish, and I love watching people – masters of their craft – deep in the focus of service.

 

Now presented with our menus, each course was also paired with the region of the world that inspired it which I feel was a great touch, and a detail that made each dish more interesting and took us on a splendid tour.

 

Our first courses were a lovely transition from the snacks we started with, beginning with ‘Pakora’, a deep fried shiso leaf and chutneys, inspired by Punjab.

 

‘Gajar’ was next, tandoori sand carrot, lentil pakora along with mint and coriander. This dish, from the city of Lucknow, probably found its way into the top 10 dishes I have ever eaten – my partner and I looked at each other in astonishment following this. It’s one of those you simply wish never ended.

 

 

My scallop dish was next, one type of dish I always look forward to, and it did not disappoint. ‘Badami Korma’ comprised an Orkney scallop, mooli, apple and almond.

 

Next up was ‘Aloo Tuk’ a take on the well-known potato side dish. From Delhi, this visually beautiful course had Achaari pink fir potato, mango and tamarind.

 

 

To Kolkata next – roasted monkfish, asparagus, white grape and a Bengali mustard sauce for ‘Shorshe Maach’, before whizzing over to Kashmir for ‘Wazwan’, paratha bread, hogget belly and shorba – a form of rich soup or stew found all across Asia in various guises.

 

Finally, for the main event before the sweets, we stuck around in Kashmir with ‘Yakhni’ – our tandoori quail with chapli, barbecued pea, mint and wild garlic.

 

I always find the bridge between savoury and sweet in tasting menus fascinating, and this one took the shape of ‘Mukhwas’ from Gujarti – a lemon sorbet with fennel, black pepper and lemon chutney.

 

Finally, we were brought back to Birmingham, with Valhrona chocolate, pine ice cream and mint compote for our ‘After Eight’ dessert, before being led back to the lounge for a selection of sweets.

 

It felt a little like we’d been on a real around the world trip; I was ready for bed, suitably wined and dined and incredibly satisfied.

 

I would recommend Opheem to anyone and everyone who cares to listen, it’s somewhere really special with every minute detail considered profoundly. Aktar Islam and his entire team care deeply about exceptional cuisine and exceptional service.

 

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